Defunkd

[LongshotLynx]

Hi,

I’m new here. I have several vintage early 90’s Rock, Metal and Electronic music tees from the early ‘90s and throughout the years since. They’ve never needed repair, but I’ve recently come into possession of my personal holy grail of t-shirts of my favorite guitarist and his band since the late 80’s.

QUESTION: Would someone recommend a seamstress with *experience* specifically with vintage t-shirt repair?

They need to be able to have the appropriate type of thread (not just the right color) and a machine that can do a Serger stitch matching the original.

Within the US preferred, but also Canada

I’m currently located between Indianapolis and Louisville (though not for long) I’d prefer to meet them in person so I’m willing to drive. However I expect I’ll need to get an assessment by sending pics and shipping it to the seamstress. Willing to do this if someone can highly recommend based on personal experience or is aware of who has solid industry experience with t-short repair.

The tee is a Mint cond. (unworn/unwashed) tour tee c. ‘93, 100% cotton, black w/ a simple white print for the band Caspar Brötzmann Massaker. I know it’s authentic because the guy I bought it from did business for Beggars Banquet who gave him a couple tees as they were promoting the tour and he told me a detailed story of taking pics of the musicians and such. Caspar only once toured the US with Massaker and soon after returned for a duo appearance with FM Einheit. So on a personal level and given the rarity of this tee, not to mention its condition, I want to make an informed decision that doesn’t too greatly risk compromising its condition. I do intend to wear it, but there is a *probable* issue with the hem stitching and cut. There are two other aesthetic issues with stitching. Instances with the angle of stitching on both shoulders, and a 1” stitching spot on the collar. These last two imperfections are mostly aesthetic, however they are such that I know they could be restitched with very minimal to no risk.

Is it true that a Serger machine is the only machine that can make such a stitch, or is it the only machine that can both cut the cloth and stitch simultaneously?

The serger stitch around the hem is “puckered” and unevenly cut for almost 1/3 of the circumference. From visual research done, it’s a single Serger stitch - probably 2-thread Flatlock. Basically this section will not lay flat and any vertical stretch through this portion of mis-stitching puts too much strain on the tensile strength of the thread. From experience, I know this will expose it to snagging, potentially causing greater damage, and basically risk shortening the life of the tee. I don’t want to feel like I have to so precious about how I live in it while wearing it. The portion of stitching is in the front and it does look ugly.

I do realize it may be that I’m told it’s better to do nothing than repair. My concern is amount the integrity of during a life of use and not about appraisal/resale value. It’s with me till the end!

Sorry so long. More info is better than not.

Thanks!

[jimmyj]

Love the steps you're taking to care for your personal grail!

So, I've used a seamstress for vintage t-shirts a few times and learned a few lessons the hardway. Once I had a shirt from the 90s that was sooo long it almost looked like I was wearing a dress - so I took it to someone who had an excellent reputation for repairing t-shirt holes.

When I got it back, and when I tried it on, I could hear little snaps. Turns out, the seamstress just used a standard stitch along the bottom hem, so those little snaps were the thread.

I was told later that's because you need to have a serge stitch there, otherwise the threads have no flexibility when the shirt is stretched a bit.

And was also told, as you mentioned that it's something that's done by machine and there's a cut involved.

Can you snap a photo of the hem issues you're describing?

Thanks

[LongshotLynx]

Hi Jimmy,

With regard to the stitching type. Obviously your correct. I’m having a difficult time in all my hours of research finding out of a Serger machine is the only sewing machine that can do a Serger stitch, or if the stitch can be done with a regular sewing machine. All I know for certian is that a Serger machine both cuts and stitches the cloth as it moved past the sewing platform. I’m unable to find anything from any vintage clothing repair articles that speaks to that. I suspect a seamstress needs a Serger machine or they can’t create that kind of stitch with a regular machine.

I was hoping someone here could point me to someone who has experience with vintage t-shirts. They’d have a Serger, the appropriate type of thread, and I’d have peace of mind.

I’m very anxious about cold-calling potentially countless tailer shops just to determine if they meet all three criteria.

I’ve got a window of time to call around Indianapolis and drop it off and pick it up before I move. But if I have to ship the tee to a seamstress, I’m not going to easily be able to communicate with them. So I want to know they will understand the nuances of the specific issue I want advised on because they have experience with common vintage tee issues.

If have to give it to a seamstress who has the thread and the machine, but not the experience, I’m willing to do that, but only if I can talk to them in person.

But I only have so much time to dedicate to this. Hence I figured someone here would know someone trustworthy. Otherwise I’ll have to email or call people from all these articles about vintage tee collectors and hope they give me the time of day with a recommendation response.

There really is next to no info on vintage t-shirt websites or articles about who in the tailor industry is versed in repairs for all these vintage tees that everyone has. Maybe it is just a matter of finding *any* seamstress that has both a Serger and right type of thread, regardless if they have specific experience with vintage tees?

I can attach pics to a follow on post but it’ll have to be in several days. I didn’t post them initially because I figured that kind of assessment is for the seamstress. The major issue is the hem stitch, and that portion of it can be cut off to make it even around the circumference. Those other two issues are minor enough to leave alone but simple enough to fix.

[zargosh]

I had never heard of a serger before I read your post. Interesting stuff.

I found an organization online that might be able to help you locate a good tailor/seamstress who does serger work in your area. The Indianapolis chapter of the American Sewing Guild: https://indyasg.org/classes/

[LongshotLynx]

Okay, thanks so much for that! I called and talked with one of the three people listed. She was understanding but didn’t know who locally would have a Serger. Suggested I call one of the other two people listed.

I still have a LOT of people to call to figure this out.

[jimmyj]

Let us know how it plays out!

[LongshotLynx]

I called a vintage clothes shop in Indy called Naptown Thrift to get a recommendation. An employee said there is a seamstress/clothing designer about 15 mins east of the city who had worked on doing sone kind of repairs for several t-shirts they had. His name is Michael Angelo (By Michaelangelo on Instagram). I’ve texted with him and will be sending him photos of my shirt for him to assess. He didn’t confirm he had the right thread or machine but I’m assuming he does. We’ll see… I’ll update when I know more.

[jimmyj]

Let me know how that plays out - if you like I can post this on our IG account and see what the community recommends?

[LongshotLynx]

Please do that. Thanks!

[jimmyj]

OK I will do it on Weds!